Who was Ataturk?

Ataturk means father of Turkey. Mustafa Kemal was given the name since, like George Washington in the United States, Attaturk is considered the father of modern Turkiye.

When he was born, Turkey (and it was Turkey then) was still part of the Ottoman Empire. Early in his youth, he was arrested for protesting against the Sultan. He joined the Army and was involved in the defense of Gallipoli.

In 1922, the Turkish National Movement, which he directed, overthrew the Ottomans. (They, by the way, ruled for several hundred years.) In 1923, Kamal was given the name Ataturk and appointed President. He ruled until 1938, the year of his death.

He is credited with making Turkiye a secular country, passing many reforms. Religion was pushed back. When one is in the country, the call to prayer is still heard from the minarets but prayer five times a day is not required. The cursive Arabic alphabet was abandoned in favor of the Roman. (This helps an English speaker since you quickly recognize and understand written words.) He opened thousands of schools, and women were given equal rights. He is rightly called the father of the modern Turkiye. Visiting Istanbul is like visiting any large, modern, cosmopolitan city with McDonalds, multi-ethnic restaurants, and many different languages heard in the street.

However, he was a dictator. He governed under one party rule. During the overthrow of the caliphate, the Greeks and Armenians were expelled and many Armenians were massacred. The current relationship with Syria and especially Iran is poor because of the country’s secularism. And Turkiye is an ally of the United States.

The Basilica Cistern and the spice market

One of the most interesting sights in Istanbul is the Basilica Cistern, an enormous underground cistern. Ancient columns hold up the building above, some very ancient. Prior to the creation of the cistern, a Basilica stood on this spot. This was probably in the 3rd or fourth centuries of the Roman Empire. It is an eerie feeling walking underground (on a new concrete walkway) with water all around.

At the base if two of the columns are Medusa heads. No one is quite sure where they came from or why they are there. However, I wouldn’t be surprised to know they were simply repurposed from older columns. We saw many examples of newer buildings with much older stone blocks or columns.

Locals drew water from the cistern until the mid eighteen hundreds but the cistern is no longer used as a water source.

The other sight we saw was one of the largest spice markets. An indoor market crowded with tiny niches, all with different specialities, this one is one of the largest in Istanbul. It smells powerful of spices. I bought a tea, which came as leaves and berries, and saffron. Even in Turkey, one of the largest exporters of saffron, it was pretty expensive.

This is what the crowd looked like outside; it was even more crowded inside.

Istanbul

Istanbul was highlight. It is a modern, secular city, divided in two by the Bosphorus Strait. As one would expect, it is filled with mosques. I visited several, including the famous Sofia Hagida. Built as a Christian church, it became a mosque when the Ottomans took over. Christian symbols are still visible on the second floor, which has been turned into a museum.

We visited several mosques. The tile work is amazing.